Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town

Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan

Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town

Thesis / Dissertation

2026

Publisher

University of Cape Town

Department

Department of Public Health and Family Medicine

Faculty

Faculty of Health Sciences

Abstract

There are significant public health concerns related to the use and effects of skin lightening beauty products, the growth of which has been called a global epidemic. Research has demonstrated the sometimes-severe consequences associated with the use of skin lightening products, including poor self-esteem, permanent skin damage and even skin cancer. Many countries have regulations over skin lightening products, but it is challenging to properly manage the illicit market that nonetheless emerges. While most research has focused on the dermatological effects of skin lightening creams, little focus has been placed on the actual experiences of using skin lightening creams and the implications these have on public health. The goal of this study is to provide an account of the perspectives and experiences of service providers and skin lightening cream consumers in Cape Town. To gain insight into the daily consumption of skin lightening cosmetics, this study focused on beauty salons, African hairdressers, and stores belonging to the so-called "ethnic" trade associated with immigrants and descendants of African populations as its main sites of investigation. By means of snowball sampling, 20 female participants, between the ages of 24- and 68-years old, were recruited. In order to understand how expectations that are placed on the body, by the marketing of skin lightening products reflect and perpetuate racial, class, and gender-based social forces, observations in public spaces, followed by semi-structured interviews were conducted to address the following research questions: What are the motivations behind the use of skin lightening products, the effects and characteristics of using skin lightening products, and finally, the characteristics and influence the regulation of products have on the marketing and usage of products. Thematic analysis findings revealed the usage of skin lightening products, is mostly driven by colourism, dermatological issues, and celebrity and media marketing. Findings also indicate that using skin lightening products can have both beneficial and harmful effects, with the latter predominating and the former having severe health consequences. Lastly, the implementation of policies gave rise to covert marketing techniques and the expansion of an illicit market. While the study questions the implications of policies implemented to address the problem of skin lightening, it also raises questions about the effectiveness of policy implementation due to new concerns brought on by the illegal skin lightening marketing and covert marketing strategies.