Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe

dc.contributor.advisorFuh, Divine
dc.contributor.advisorMatose, Frank
dc.contributor.authorMashonganyika, Emely Shungu
dc.date.accessioned2025-12-11T10:34:32Z
dc.date.available2025-12-11T10:34:32Z
dc.date.issued2025
dc.date.updated2025-12-11T10:31:13Z
dc.description.abstractThis study examines dress and women's self-fashioning in rural Zimbabwe. The main research question relates to how Korekore women experience, understand and interpret their dress choices to express their identities. Deploying social constructionism as theoretical frame, I build on decolonial feminist scholarship to interrogate the dominant discourses on womanhood and fashion. The study adopts a qualitative methodological approach comprising in-depth interviews, focus group discussions, observations and personal stories to explore Korekore women's experiences, choices and aspirations regarding fashion and identities. The study finds that Hunhu, a Shona philosophy centred on dignity, respect, and communal values, serves as a guiding principle for self-fashioning among Korekore women. While Hunhu traditionally promotes collective well-being, its principles have been manipulated within patriarchal contexts to regulate women's dress as a form of control. I question such distortions, showing how Korekore women navigate these norms using dress to assert individual identity and to express a sense of collective belonging. Notably, the relationship between rural women and fashion remains under-researched. Acknowledging fashion and womanhood as performative acts, I explore how women's dress constitutes specific subjectivities, revealing the political, cultural, economic and sexual ideologies shaping identity and social norms. The study demonstrates that while fashion is fluid, leading to shifts in dress choices, the values that Korekore women attach to their clothing have remained consistent with their identities. This enables them to embody identities engrained in Hunhu, surpassing mainstream representations of African women shaped by dominant Western feminist perspectives. Dress thus becomes a critical element in this construction. Korekore women are both fashion creators and consumers who position themselves as ‘real' (vakadzi chaivo) and dignified (vane chiremerera/vakatsiga) women. They use fashion to navigate various notions of autonomy, confidence and selfexpression. Their interpretations of dress and self-fashioning blend contemporary and traditional roles, demonstrating their embodiment of and play with hybrid identities. Overall, the research calls for a decolonial approach to studying African women's fashion, questioning dominant assumptions about gender roles that may limit creativity, agency and self-expression. I evaluate views on gender-based inequalities that, though crucial, may obscure the relational aspects of women's lives and the role of Hunhu in Korekore women's self-fashioning. A key contribution is the idea of dress and self-fashioning as a manifestation of and underpinned by Hunhu, pushing for an interrogation of the relationship between patriarchy as a control mechanism and Hunhu as a philosophy that strengthens communal well-being and mutual care. The study recognises fashion's pivotal role in how rural women (re)define womanhood and society, addressing a gap in the scholarly representation of African womanhood.
dc.identifier.apacitationMashonganyika, E. S. (2025). <i>Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe</i>. (). University of Cape Town ,Faculty of Humanities ,Department of Sociology. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431en_ZA
dc.identifier.chicagocitationMashonganyika, Emely Shungu. <i>"Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe."</i> ., University of Cape Town ,Faculty of Humanities ,Department of Sociology, 2025. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431en_ZA
dc.identifier.citationMashonganyika, E.S. 2025. Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe. . University of Cape Town ,Faculty of Humanities ,Department of Sociology. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431en_ZA
dc.identifier.ris TY - Thesis / Dissertation AU - Mashonganyika, Emely Shungu AB - This study examines dress and women's self-fashioning in rural Zimbabwe. The main research question relates to how Korekore women experience, understand and interpret their dress choices to express their identities. Deploying social constructionism as theoretical frame, I build on decolonial feminist scholarship to interrogate the dominant discourses on womanhood and fashion. The study adopts a qualitative methodological approach comprising in-depth interviews, focus group discussions, observations and personal stories to explore Korekore women's experiences, choices and aspirations regarding fashion and identities. The study finds that Hunhu, a Shona philosophy centred on dignity, respect, and communal values, serves as a guiding principle for self-fashioning among Korekore women. While Hunhu traditionally promotes collective well-being, its principles have been manipulated within patriarchal contexts to regulate women's dress as a form of control. I question such distortions, showing how Korekore women navigate these norms using dress to assert individual identity and to express a sense of collective belonging. Notably, the relationship between rural women and fashion remains under-researched. Acknowledging fashion and womanhood as performative acts, I explore how women's dress constitutes specific subjectivities, revealing the political, cultural, economic and sexual ideologies shaping identity and social norms. The study demonstrates that while fashion is fluid, leading to shifts in dress choices, the values that Korekore women attach to their clothing have remained consistent with their identities. This enables them to embody identities engrained in Hunhu, surpassing mainstream representations of African women shaped by dominant Western feminist perspectives. Dress thus becomes a critical element in this construction. Korekore women are both fashion creators and consumers who position themselves as ‘real' (vakadzi chaivo) and dignified (vane chiremerera/vakatsiga) women. They use fashion to navigate various notions of autonomy, confidence and selfexpression. Their interpretations of dress and self-fashioning blend contemporary and traditional roles, demonstrating their embodiment of and play with hybrid identities. Overall, the research calls for a decolonial approach to studying African women's fashion, questioning dominant assumptions about gender roles that may limit creativity, agency and self-expression. I evaluate views on gender-based inequalities that, though crucial, may obscure the relational aspects of women's lives and the role of Hunhu in Korekore women's self-fashioning. A key contribution is the idea of dress and self-fashioning as a manifestation of and underpinned by Hunhu, pushing for an interrogation of the relationship between patriarchy as a control mechanism and Hunhu as a philosophy that strengthens communal well-being and mutual care. The study recognises fashion's pivotal role in how rural women (re)define womanhood and society, addressing a gap in the scholarly representation of African womanhood. DA - 2025 DB - OpenUCT DP - University of Cape Town KW - dress choices KW - fashion KW - rural women KW - womanhood KW - Hunhu LK - https://open.uct.ac.za PB - University of Cape Town PY - 2025 T1 - Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe TI - Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe UR - http://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431 ER - en_ZA
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431
dc.identifier.vancouvercitationMashonganyika ES. Dress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe. []. University of Cape Town ,Faculty of Humanities ,Department of Sociology, 2025 [cited yyyy month dd]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/11427/42431en_ZA
dc.language.isoen
dc.language.rfc3066Eng
dc.publisher.departmentDepartment of Sociology
dc.publisher.facultyFaculty of Humanities
dc.publisher.institutionUniversity of Cape Town
dc.subjectdress choices
dc.subjectfashion
dc.subjectrural women
dc.subjectwomanhood
dc.subjectHunhu
dc.titleDress and women's self-fashioning in Makonde, Zimbabwe
dc.typeThesis / Dissertation
dc.type.qualificationlevelDoctoral
dc.type.qualificationlevelPhD
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