Disrupting and reclaiming local foodways

Fortes, Jessica

Disrupting and reclaiming local foodways

Thesis / Dissertation

2026

Publisher

University of Cape Town

Department

Department of Sociology

Faculty

Faculty of Humanities

Abstract

The allure of modernising food systems as a fast track to achieving food security is backed by both state and corporate agendas but has contributed to a shift away from local and traditional diets. This shift has also damaged the cultural identities attached to the use of certain foods in many communities. This dissertation arose out of the current debate regarding the absorption of local foodways into global food systems. It sought to address the questions: In which ways and to what extent is a delocalisation of foodways taking place? What does this mean for food rights and agency of local communities? And, in bringing attention to local foodways, how can global food systems be transformed and reimagined? Through two case studies, this research explored local foodways as social, cultural, and physical systems in two areas in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa: the peri-urban location of KwaHhoHho and the rural area of Ingwavuma. The research aimed to obtain an understanding of community members' lived experiences of their local foodways in each area. It also investigated the change in characteristics of local foodways as they relate to the nature-culture dichotomy, defined as a divide found between society and nature in which nature is rendered a resource and the relational link between humans and nature is eroded. In-depth observations of participants' foodways were garnered through semi-structured interviews conducted with selected residents in 2022 and 2023, together with walking interviews through the vegetation near their homes. The results showed the foodways of resident participants to be shaped by struggles over land, power and discrimination. The foods consumed in both areas consisted of fresh vegetables, grains, beans, and meat. However, where participants obtained most of their food from their own farms and fields, a greater variety of traditional foods was found. The lifestyle of farming and preparing traditional foods took place in both areas despite an increased reliance on store- bought foods; this move towards store-bought produce was particularly apparent in more urbanised KwaHhoHho. Local foodways were perceived as transforming in light of modernisation and wider global and social changes coupled with environmental, social, and economic challenges faced by local farmers. A trend of a slow breakdown in local foodways and an absorption into global food systems and markets was observed, in both case studies; however, it was perceived to be more pronounced in KwaHhoHho. Despite this, participants' foodways were observed to be complex, interlinked networks tethered to culture, heritage, and nature. Ultimately, the research affirms local foodways as spaces that foster a deeper bond with nature and strengthen community bonds and identity.